93 Working log

srxr700

New member
Just picked myself up a 93 750. Hell yea, this thing is mint. Plan is to run through the whole sled...So i figured I would just post my progress on here periodically with updates and any advice, tips and such is welcome.
 

Last night: Removed...

1. clutches
2. Brake
3. chaincase
4. drive shaft
5. track
6. skid

Couple quick questions....

1. Bottom gear in chaincase- Is there supposed to be that much play between the gear and the set bolt? On my srx/sxr there is no play. Seemed to be alot, but it

it doesnt show that there is another collar there so im guessing this is correct.

2. Top gear/jackshaft- I see that the jackshaft splits up on these sleds. On the male end (towards the clutches) where is slips into the female sleeve, the teeth

are torqued a bit. Nothing to serious, more or less at the tip of the male end. Is this typical of a sled with almost 9k? Also is this going to be a problem in the

future? Im guessing I will have to replace not only that piece, but also the shaft.

3. Brake Caliper- I see the brake is two pieces. They are pretty loose and I can flex the brake slightly by applying opposite pressure to the two pieces. Brake pads

are like new so i know that they have been replaced recently. Question is...was that brake designed that way or do i need a new caliper?
 
1. yes there is some play.
2. that jackshaft is a weak part, even more so when studded. I believe they are no longer made, starting in '95 they were one piece. A tight, lined up driveline will minimize wear.
3.caliper or rotor? rotor is two piece and the rivets do come loose. has been known to cause a vibration at high speeds if they are not tight.
 
I meant to type rotor...lol.

Is the rotor something to be concerned with? As far as breaking? If not I think i will just run it and see how bad it is. I hate to start dumping money into it.

One more question I just thought about. Is it recommended to replace the paper chaincase gasket (that I just spend about an hour carefully removing..argghh) or make your own? I can make my own for free out of the black permatex vs. 20 bucks for a new paper...
 
Just glue up the chaincase gasket with permatex, give it a nice smooth bead, I used the blue stuff, haven't had any problems yet.
 
Just glue up the chaincase gasket with permatex, give it a nice smooth bead, I used the blue stuff, haven't had any problems yet.

I do the same thing I do... clean both surfaces so they are oil free and use silicone sealer.
 
I think you can re-rivet the brake rotor to help with the play some. It will have some play in it, but less is better. I was going to re-rivet mine, but found a good deal on one that didnt have any play. The pads take a bigger beating that the rotor does, wear wise atleast, so its prob not worn out, just has play. The jackshaft on my, and my dad's 92's both are tweeked at the end. As long as there isint alot of back and forth play, it should be fine for a while, but if you see another one some where, they are good for backups. Mine has been replaced once in about 15k miles, and this one is prob half way worn out, but should last me a while, as its not really getting raced any more.

Also, pull the air boxes out and check the famous white tabs, to see if they are intact or not. I broke all of mine off after finding a couple down in the reed cage area. It will save you an engine later.
 
Update:

1. Had to re inforce the front skid mounts as they had worn further forward in the

tunnel. I just fabed up some new mounting brackets for the inside and outside of

tunnel. Should hold up well.

2. Went through and replaced all loose rivets. The right footwell had some play, and

the swinging fender brackets under the sled were both loose. All body panels are now

nice and tight.

3. Ive got the track on the bench which is in need of track clips. So that is my next

focus. Then on to the skid which looks good. Will need bushings and such.

Will update with pics soon. Computer issues.
 
BTW...Im def. going to permatex the chaincase. As far as re riveting the brake rotor, i dont know if ive ever seen rivets that big. Or to put it better, ever installed rivets that big. How did you go about it?
 
BTW...Im def. going to permatex the chaincase. As far as re riveting the brake rotor, i dont know if ive ever seen rivets that big. Or to put it better, ever installed rivets that big. How did you go about it?


Grab the rotor, and head down to your local small airport/ aircraft hanger, and see what they have. My buddy owns a small local air field, and he told me he had some stuff that could do something that big.
 
I might be off base here because i am not quite sure how big the rivits are..
Sled is at home I'm at work so cant go look, but your local auto-body shop might have
what you need. I have a "big-daddy" rivet gun at home jst like most body shops do, handles are like 24" long, they use them for installing window regulators on most of the newer style trucks and cars...
worth a shot if you don't have a airport nearbye....
Bubba
 
update:

1. Got a buddy who is a pilot, ill give him a call and see what he know about those rivets.

2. Replaced bad track clips on track

3. Looked closer at the small jackshaft insert and I am having some concerns with it. It appears to be worn a bit. It seems that finding these on the market

in good shape is a struggle. With them not making them anymore what options do i have. I havent pulled the carbs off for cleaning yet, so havent had a good look

at the jackshaft mounting. Is it possible to upgrade the jackshaft to a 95. How much modding are we talking?

4. Skid is on the workbench. Going to start the rebuild on it in the morning.
 
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haha, just thought i'd finish this thread by saying...NOT FOR SALE. Haha, Direct quote from the girlfriend!!
 


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