Pick up my first vmax4 what should i look for?????

M

marc8_2

New member
just pick up a 92 vmax4 750 yesterday. I have a 2 vmax600 one with turbo but this is the first time to have a vmax4. what should i know about it and whats the problems with them if there is any,

thanks
marc
 

Welcome Marc!

Remove the airbox, pull out the carb connecting boots and remove the plastic tabs on the white plastic inserts that are in each boot. Many of these crack and fail then are ingested causing catastrophic meltdown. I removed the white plastic inserts completely but many on this site recommend just breaking off the tabs.

Good luck and enjoy your V4!!
 
Congrats, I would also advise you to check the play between the the stub shaft and jackshaft located near the chaincase.
 
Yup!!!

Then learn to adjust your smile as you are now riding the baddest Bad Ass on snow and you will need to look the part!! lol.

opsled

PS, there is a shnitt load of GREAT!! stuff here on the does/don'ts with a 4. If you have specifecs ask and/or search. There are many answers from gurus who no longer visit on a daily basis and most Q'stions have been answered before.
 
congrats!..having said that..having bought a vmax4 now.. you will now be known as someone in a cult! wear it with pride!!! from now on in your travels.. you will be scouring the countryside looking for these beasts.. it will become an obsession, a sickness so to speak!!! but one you can live with... do everything mentioned above and just a good service to carbs ,clutches i would add...
 
Welcome to the site and the Family Marc!

let the smile and the obsession beggin :)

Marc...

92 Vmax-4 750
94 Vmax-4 750
95 Vmax-4 800 (x2)
96 Vmax-4 800
97 Vmax-4 800
 
Lmao i feel so welcome to this family and cult thanks for the info. I have a question that i can't find a answer to. is there gyt pipes like the twin pipes for 600vmax for the vmax4?
 
Is it totally stock and how many miles are on it?

If you remove the air boxes it would be a good idea to give the float bowls a quick check to see if they are clean and check the jets. The stock jets should be 135 mains and 47.5 pilots, that's if it is stock.

Like vmax4rules already stated you should check the splined coupling on the jackshaft for wear.

Probably the biggest issue with this sled (especially the 92) is the secondary clutch binding. It would be worth it in my opinion to take it apart and clean it. The ramp shoes can be knocked out with a punch and turned around if they are worn, be careful though because they are really expensive. The outer surface of the helix should be chrome and it can be polished with metal polish. Don't use lube anywhere except some grease on the jackshaft splines.

Most have the best results with factory belts, they are expensive so it would be worth checking the clutch alignment.

Also if you are new to these sleds there is a small gear box in the centre of the motor where the PTO comes out to drive the primary clutch, there is a drain plug to replace the lube.

Easiest pipe upgrade is to get a set of 800 pipes and the 800 Y pipes. The outlet of the Y and the inlets of the expansion chambers is larger and is supposed to give about 9hp increase. There are also quad pipes available but welding of the crank gears is recommended on the 750. You can also get some easy hp on the 92 by doing a cylinder lift with a thicker base gasket, it changes the port timing. You need to get the compression back that you lose raising the cylinders by using a thinner head gasket and cutting the head.

Ken
 
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Its completely stock and would have to check the miles again. I seen people that has 8bu cdi? is it the one off 800?
 
Going to 800 drivetrain to be able to run 800 secondary is a big improvement too. Lots of people here have done it. Free horse power is the best and clutching efficiency makes a huge difference. I have always had a 95 so 800 clutch was never an issue. maybe someone else has good info on clutching improvements
 
This is just my opinion but installing an 800 CDI on a stock 750 isn't going to do much for you. Also, unless you can get a good price on a complete 800 drive line you'd probably be better off selling your 750 and buying an 800. I guess it all depends on what you want, how handy you are, and how much you want to spend.

You can free up some hp in the driveline if you want to take the time to blueprint it. It costs literally nothing, gives free track hp, better belt life, and the jackshaft spline won't wear out.

http://www.vmax4.com/vbulletin/entry.php?26-Race-Preperation-blueprinting

Ken
 
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The 750 is a lot more of a collectible sled though IMO and many 800's are modded beyond recognition that are for sale. Clutch set up and blue printing the chassis is the best free performance gain to be had. All it basically costs is time, research wise and experimental wise to get the clutches and gearing working for the type of riding that you do.
 
Tuchodi said:
The 750 is a lot more of a collectible sled though IMO and many 800's are modded beyond recognition that are for sale. Clutch set up and blue printing the chassis is the best free performance gain to be had. All it basically costs is time, research wise and experimental wise to get the clutches and gearing working for the type of riding that you do.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input.

Ken
 
The square tube between the struts tends to crack its welds and gussets. It is not a big deal to get a tig welder to fix them up, and if the bulkhead is bent out of shape to jack it straight before welding.

Tuchodi, did you buy the snowmobile in your picture from Manitoba?
 
Yes i bought it, it's on its way by truck to the Yukon. I have waited for ages to get another 95 and although it will require almost a complete rebuild , i will ride it this season.
 
would there be a reason why they have a square tube in the middle of the 2 struts and not a round one like 500-600vmax?
 
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