Primary Clutch belt ?

vollender

New member
I was getting sled ready for race season starting in 2 weeks. I was running sled on a stand and reving it up. I had the belt gaurd off and was watching belt transfer in the clutches.

I saw the the belt in the primary side was lacking a 1/4" from the top of the clutch. I was wondering if this is normal or should it come up to the top.

If it should come up to the top what should I look for to correct problem

Thanks Ray
 

What clutches are you running? Do you have the reverse secondary on it? Is it from a Vmax 4, or is it from a 600?
BTW, that's not a great idea to run that thing that fast while you are looking at the clutches without the cover on. If anything came apart, that thing could kill ya. Just sayin...
Did you get that thing going any faster with the pipes? What are you running for times?
 
As far as I know they are the stock yamaha clutches. They were on it when I bought it. How do I tell on a reverse clutch and if they are 600 clutches.

I got it running a little better 11.11 at 113. mph pretty fun to race.

Yea I know not to smart.

Thanks Ray
 
Hey Ray nice to hear your getting your sled ready I hope we hear more from you this summer on how you' re doing

Thanks G
 
I don't remember how to tell the 600 from the 800. I just remember it being discussed that it shouldn't be used without some machining of some sorts.
 
So with that said with regards to the machining, can a 95-96 secondary shaft be used aswell from a 500 or 600? ...Rob
 
I do believe you want that to climp the clutch to the top, are you running a new belt? and I think Hauck still sells a speed sheeve for the inside of your primary. it will get you a few mph on the top. ( speed sheeve is couple mm thicker primary sheeve)I put one on the rx1. I would draw a line on both clutches make a pass and see what she is doing under load, then adjust from there. you may want to adjust your weights, I think thats what racing is all about find all the ways that dont work to get to what does work. you can also remove cover and spring pull your clutch together set belt in it to see for your own eye were the highest point your belt could run, a new belt will ride higher, well hope this helps.
 
I had trouble with it grabbing the belt. If I launched hard, I could feel (and smell) the belt slipping. I took it off and put a stock one back on and problem solved. Granted, this was a full traction launch, but it slipped pretty bad.
 
Just wondering what belt you used, with the rx i ran the older softer durameter belt for racing they hook pretty good (no rib) scuff and wash light cross hatch on the clutch. kahunas you gonna sell that maybe?
 
something tells me that that hauck sheave was grabing the belt like u want it to but ur secondary pressure was wrong and it released that tention as ur secondary was not set up right slipping must remember that im sur hauck has won more races in his sleep than u will in ur life time not to be smart ass but he built that speed ring for a reason . allso wrong spring rate
 
You are right, Al, but I'm not the only one that doesn't like them. I tried many, many combinations with that sheave and was never happy with it.
 
So if belt is not coming out all the way. do you go heavyer or lighter on weights. My weights have no rivets in them. I also noticed the the roller is only rolling on half of the weight. I was given a set up of the 8bu weights with 4.5 rivets loaded. what does loaded mean.

Thanks Ray
 
What do you mean by not coming all the way out?
If your weights are only hitting on half of the Roller or vice versa, you either have bad weight bushings, or worn roller bushings, or maybe both. Check that soon. It will start cutting into your spider if not taken care of. It can also ruin your weights.
Loaded weights refers to having all of the holes in the weights full of rivets.
 


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