97 bulk head/Tunnel

You might want to measure the width of your 97 tunnel to your 93 . I will measure my 97 to my other 5 vmax`s . I think there different I should check before I reply on this one . I might be wrong If I am don`t hold me too it !!
 
Changing a tunnel on a 4 isn't that hard although it does take some time. Basically everything from the steering gate back has to come off. The chaincase doesn't have to be messed with and the track can just hang on the drivers. There are a couple of belly pan rivets that go through the tunnel but the pan can stay on the bulkhead. Other sleds can be more involved as the tunnel extends forward of the chaincase.

I wouldn't even want to rerivet by hand. Not because of how hard it is to pull the rivets but because an air riveted will do a much better job. When doing them by hand it will take two or three strokes on the rivet tool to get them sinched. The rivet head should stay perfectly still during the sinching process to get the rivet as tight as it shold be. That is very hard to do by hand especially if you are using the right rivets. An air riveter will pull them up instantly and lock them as tight as they can possibly be. I used stainless steel structural rivets here. Aluminum rivets should only be used on belly pans and other non structural areas. I won't use a steel rivet on a sled for obvious reasons.

opsled
 
Thanks for the answer it really made me feel at better about buying this sled! YOU GUYS ARE VERY HELPFUL AS ALWAYS! Think I'm going to buy sled this week if everything else on it ....--- I can't make up my mind if I want to polish or paint tunnel . Sorry but I thought of three more questions. 1. If I pained would I be better to have new tunnel powder coated or painted by body shop. If I stick w. stock suspension, is there any way to fill those extra holes. What year tunnels can I use? As Always THANKS AGAIN!
 
opsled said:
. That is very hard to do by hand especially if you are using the right rivets. An air riveter will pull them up instantly and lock them as tight as they can possibly be. I used stainless steel structural rivets here.
opsled
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I agree, but you can do them by hand with patience. As far as a better job Im sure an air riveter would be easier but with due diligence a hand riveter should do nearly as good a job. My logic here is this, the rivet will not break off until a certain force is applied to the rivet, this should be a constant based on the quality of the rivet of course and their manufacturing standard. So if the rivets are the same the air riveter shouldnt be able to install them better or tighter. So, if the hand riveter if used correctly it should put the same rivet in the same hole at the same consistency, just be ready for one hell of a wrist workout! And yes stainless steel of course.

-Rustman
 
Carllaponte said:
....--- I can't make up my mind if I want to polish or paint tunnel . Sorry but I thought of three more questions. 1. If I pained would I be better to have new tunnel powder coated or painted by body shop. If I stick w. stock suspension, is there any way to fill those extra holes. What year tunnels can I use? As Always THANKS AGAIN!
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Paint or polish was a hard call for me too. I eventually went the way of the shine, I think it turned out pretty sweet.

http://www.vmax4.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?9982-engine-rebuilt-and-ready-for-the-chassis/page2
 
Is the 97 you are looking at the one in Iowa? It looks like the black plates pictured on the tunnel are on that sled. Here is a picture of my Bender prepped 93 with a polished tunnel. They do look sweet and very easy to do when the tunnel is removed. Jeff Wurl
 

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If you choose to powder coat the tunnel just remember that it can warp it a little bit from the baking of the paint. I've seen it before. Good luck on your project.
Glenn
 
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