Full Shift Belt Position
Hauck "K" is 45/41 and is plated this is a good choice for radar running. The plating will make this helix act like a 43/37? It will up shift good and hold the shift rpm with the finish angle.
When I have broken belts I always checked the shift position of the belt, if the belt is not allowed to go to the full shift position in the secondary clutch (due to C-C being off or helix not being back cut to allow this) the primary is pulling hard to achieve full shift but the secondary is mechanically stopping this and the force on the belt breaks it.
To check Full Shift Belt Position:
*Remove spring from primary clutch and reassemble cover then install belt and prepare to run engine without spring installed.
*With machine on stand and with at least 5" of track to ground clearance, start engine and slowly increase rpm until
belt stops rising in drive pulley.
*It should only take about 1/4 throttle to make belt rise completely. With a stock Yamaha clutch, Ideal belt is down inside the primary about 1/16". You can visibly see belt position or use marker on pulley and see where belt rides.
If this is not achieved check, c-c, and that aftermarket helix stop is back cut and not binding. On Yamaha drivens you can add shim washers under button cover/helix to allow belt to rise in drive pulley.
Willy, or like you said "It may be just a old belt" and couldn't handle the horsepower.