Tech

Here you go: http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16974

 

Bearing Info-- Wanted to put together a reference sheet for Bearings. Everyone’s personal budget will dictate the bearings they use--- After doing some research this past summer I decided to replace my skid bearings w/ less expensive Chinese Bearings, and replace my chain case and spedo bearings w/ higher quality KOYO Bearings. I made this decision after meeting in person with a manager at Bearing Headquarters. He explained to me that there is a HUGE difference in cheap (Chinese) bearings and higher quality (Japanese or German) Bearings. Yamaha NOS bearings are KOYO (Japanese), and I was able to get replacement KOYO t bearing headquarters for 50% of NOS from Yamaha.


Skid Wheel ---- Bearing #

Small Wheels ---- 6004-2RS
Large Rear ---- 6204-2RS
Proaction Top Guide ---- 6205-2RS

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750/800 Spedo Bearing ---- 3-62-22-2RS

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TSS Scissors Bearings ---- HK1414UU

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750/800 PTO Bearing --- 6206 RU

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800 Chain Case (Bearings/Seals)

Cover ---- 62/28 ---- Seal-SD-28-47

Case Top ---- 6007 ---- Seal-35-47-7

Case Bottom ---- 6305 ---- Seal-35-44-6




Bearing Suppliers:

Skid Wheel-----http://stores.ebay.com/USA-Bearings-and-Belts?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Chaincase/spedo- Bearing Headquarters-----http://www.bearingheadquarters.com/

TSS Needle Bearings-- http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7510

 

YXRC and YPZ clutches should be 18mm x 1.5 thread.

http://www.bikebandit.com/epi-clutch-puller-with-18mm-1-5-thread-for-yamaha-snowmobiles

Shark

 

If you wish run 180 with stock CDI use only one pick-up coil for both signal.

 

Found the sound rating tag for my sled before the PSI pipes.

 

I scanned this a long time ago, don't know if I've posted it on the site or not.

 

These were originally posted by YAMMIEGOD3:16 to the old site.

 

3G2-1423A-76-00 JET, MAIN (#127.5)
3G2-1423E-51-00 JET, MAIN (#128.8)
3G2-14231-26-A0 JET, MAIN (#130)
3G2-1423E-52-00 JET, MAIN (#131.3)
3G2-1423A-77-00 JET, MAIN (#132.5)
3G2-1423E-53-00 JET, MAIN (#133.8)
3G2-14231-27-00 JET, MAIN (#135)
3G2-1423E-54-00 JET, MAIN (#136.3)
3G2-1423A-78-00 JET, MAIN (#137.5)
3G2-1423E-55-00 JET, MAIN (#138.8)
3G2-14231-28-00 JET, MAIN (#140)
3G2-1423E-56-00 JET, MAIN (#141.3)
3G2-1423A-79-00 JET, MAIN (#142.5)
3G2-1423E-57-00 JET, MAIN (#143.8)
3G2-14231-29-00 JET, MAIN (#145)
3G2-1423E-58-00 JET, MAIN (#146.3)
3G2-1423A-80-A0 JET, MAIN (#147.5)
3G2-1423E-59-00 JET, MAIN (#148.8)
3G2-14231-30-A0 JET, MAIN (#150)
3G2-1423E-60-00 JET, MAIN (#151.3)
3G2-1423A-81-00 JET, MAIN (#152.5)
3G2-1423E-61-00 JET, MAIN (#153.8)
3G2-14231-31-00 JET, MAIN (#155)
3G2-1423E-62-00 JET, MAIN (#156.3)
3G2-1423A-82-00 JET, MAIN (#157.5)
3G2-1423E-63-00 JET, MAIN (#158.8)
3G2-14231-32-00 JET, MAIN (#160)


3H1-14142-37-00 JET, PILOT (# 37.5)
3H1-14142-40-00 JET, PILOT (# 40)
3H1-14142-42-00 JET, PILOT (# 42.5)
3H1-14142-45-00 JET, PILOT (# 45)
3H1-14142-47-00 JET, PILOT (# 47.5)
3H1-14142-50-00 JET, PILOT (# 50)
3H1-14142-52-00 JET, PILOT (# 52.5)
3H1-14142-55-00 JET, PILOT (# 55)


239-14172-10-00 PILOT JET, AIR (1.0)
239-14172-12-00 PILOT JET, AIR (1.2)
239-14172-20-00 PILOT JET, AIR (2.0)

 

Please don't use the word scrap in the same sentence as snowmobile parts. I guarantee I am using parts that are worse than your scrap and will be happy to buy and use them.
I am especially looking to buy bent Vmax-4 bulkheads.

 

I thought I would post this info again since I couldn't find it on the site.

750 Y-Pipe OD 49mm
800 Y-Pipe OD 52mm

750 Expansion chamber inlet OD 49mm
800 Expansion chamber inlet OD 54mm

 

As promised..... Stock, Viper(+.28lbs), and SRX (+.46lbs)

M

 

Oh after careful review I believe I found the cause of my failure..... The o-ring under the needle set was bad on the carb the caused my hydro lock. I didn't know these carbs had the filter or o-ring until now. If it's news to you too, ya might want to look next time you clean your carbs. I had a bit of crud in a couple screens and a $.040 oring cost me $600 in crank repair and rebuild costs.


M

 

Back together .... Thanks Mark.

Here are a few pics and a explanation. Install the pivot shaft into case first, the spring has a short tail and a long one. Short goes to the rear of the case, long to cover side. Leave the gears on the bench and install the spring and idler arm w/bearing on to shaft. Let it swing up to the top spindled shaft so the spring has little to no tension. Once everything is slid on to the pivot shaft then swing the idler arm down to tension the spring, hold it there and install the gears and chain. Having an extra hand helps with this part. Oh and remember to back the bolt out that sets preload on the chain, makes it easier to install the gears and chain.

 

I wish I could take credit for this simple idea but I saw it on the Schmidt Bros. web site. It's one of those deals that you wonder why didn't I think of that or why didn't Yamaha. It will definately prolong the life of the bearings and bushings in the front suspension steering scissors and makes keeping them greased easy. It was easy to do and cost less than $10.00. I picked up some 6mm grease zerks, you can buy a 6mm tap for about $3.00, and used a 3/16 drill bit. Spent very little time installing them and it works great. Tom

Nice work speedmax4!

 

These guys can rebuld your old struts. http://www.schmidtbrosmotorsports.c...Parts/TSS-Shock-Rebuild/Re-valve-Service.html

Great info fastmax!

 

Dyno pulls, 93 750 with PSI mod blasters, .039 base gasket, one head gasket. Stock cyl, carbs, air box, pump gas. Only the CDI was changed from one run to the other, 93 CDI for 750, then stock 800 CDI

 

http://www.vmax4.com/vbulletin/show...ter-new-pads-installed&highlight=brake+adjust

 

Here`s a pic of the 1996 vmax 500/600 seat..basicaly identical to the 1996/97 vmax 4 seat, except it has no lines going across the seat (left to right)..and also does`nt have a tool box, or place for one in the trunk..but hey..were talking vmax 4`s here..who needs tools!!..LOL

just to add..as I`ve learned on this site..any vmax 500/600 1994 through 1996 will fit our vmax 4`s, its just that only the 1996 vmax 500/600`s had the newer style seat (and of course the 1996/97 vmax 4`s)..Thanks to vmax4rules for the tip on the softer/improved 96 seat version..

1996 vmax 500/600 seat..

 

sure, no problem..I think the 1996 seats, are only a little over 1 inch higher...but the way they feel, it`s almost as if they used some kind of different pading? or added a softer layer on top of the old version? tomaro i`ll be uncovering the sleds, so as to move them and i`ll try to measure for sure the hieght difference...

as far as telling them apart..here ya go..

the most obvious dfferences I think..would be where the side stitching is..on the 96 & 97 vmax4..the stichting angles in towards the front, then slightly back out towards the front area of the seat...
also, another give away, is the back of the seat (where you set) the 1996 seat does`nt raise as much as the earlier seats...hard to explain, but here`s a couple pics comparing the 1995 vmax 4 seat, to the 1996 vmax 4 seat..(only difference on the 1996 NON vmax 4 seat, other words, the 1996/95 vmax 500/600`s..is the 1996 vmax 500/600`s, have no pattern on the area where you actually set..also, the 1996 vmax 500/600`s, have no tool box in the trunk..no rubber strap either..unlike the vmax 4, the tool boxes were never in the trunks, as far as i know)

The stichting difference...about 14 inches on the 1995 seat.. 1996 seat is about 10.5 inches)..


CLICK ON PICS TO ENLARGE!

1995 VMAX 4 SEAT OEM Seat, almost a straight stitching pattern on the side

1996 VMAX 4 SEAT OEM, side stitching angles in, then back out..

differences towards rear of seat (the trunk area is not as high above the seat on the 1996 seats..)

1995 vmax 4 seat OEM (about 5 inches..)

1996 vmax 4 seat OEM..(a little under 4 inches)

 

Linseed oil will keep a solid plywood bottom from rotting. I go to an auto parts store and buy a semi hard plastic ~3/16"x36"x48" truck mud flap for $12.00 and replace at least 2 bottoms with no more rotting or holding water !